Griffith Park, the largest city park in America, is Hollywood's back yard, and in December it's a rather private place. Take a left off Los Feliz at Vermont and drive on up past the Greek Theater, up into the hills and through that odd tunnel, and the park opens up before your eyes. The Hollywood Sign is to your right and the observatory to your left, but that's the tourist stuff. The rest of the park belongs to coyotes and rattlesnakes, and these days a single mountain lion who has wandered...
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